Exploring Cusco

We were tired after our hike to Saqsaywaman and the walk back to town.  It took us a little while to find a suitable restaurant to have our lunch at at in the Plaza de Armas, the central plaza.  Restaurant fronts were not always obvious during our search,P4240524.jpgbut you would also have agents from these restaurants approach you on the street with menus, to try to entice you to enter a door that could lead you to a some hidden place somewhere, perhaps even up one or two flights of stairs.

We settled on the Mistura restaurant, across the plaza from the Church of the Society of Jesus which you can see in the picture below.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe enjoyed our lunch.  It was a chance to relax and catch our breath.

The food was well presented when it arrived.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAt this restaurant, as in a few others, we were each given a complementary drink.   Some of us had Pisco Sour, a cocktail that originated in Peru. I did not find the drink that compelling the few times I tried it during this trip.  Another popular non-alcohohic beverage in Peru is Chicha Morada.  That was tasty.  (We were disappointed to find out later on in the trip that chicha morada can be bought in 2.5 liter bottles from the supermarket just like any other industrially produced drink.)

My alpaca dish was tasty.  The meat has a distinct and light flavor to it.  It also had a good consistency for chewing.  Yum!OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI coined a name for the french fries on my plate – Jenga fries!  I also partook of some additional liquid refreshment during lunch.  It was needed after all the exercise that had been done in the morning.  You can see what remains of my drink in the glass in the background.

While we were in the restaurant, we saw many plates of cuy being brought down by the waiters from the kitchen on the floor above us.  A tourist couple sitting at the table next to ours had ordered the same dish, wanting to try it at least once before they departed Peru.  They seemed to enjoy it.

After lunch, we wandered around the plaza for a while (click on the picture below).OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe spent more time at the Plaza that we wanted because of a shopping expedition that took longer than expected.  We did a couple of rounds of the plaza while waiting.

We would have liked to go into the churches around the plaza.  The cathedral (in the picture below)OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAwas supposed to have a somewhat famous painting that showed a guinea pig being consumed at the Last Supper.

We were disappointed to find out that the church was charging an entrance fee. How unseemly!  Moreover, they did not allow the use of cameras within the church.  That was the end of that project.  Even the Jesuits just across the plaza were doing the same thing as the cathedral for admission to their church.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHere are a couple of more pictures from the plaza.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA statue of Pachacutec stands at its center.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA(In addition to this statue, I saw at least two other statues of the emperor in different places around the city.)  One can also see the statue of Christ on the hillside in the background in the picture below.  That hill is next to the one Saqsaywaman is located on, and in fact you can take a trail from Saqsaywaman to this location.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe gathered together after the shopping was complete and continued our exploration, walking towards the big indoor market (or mercado).OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe walked past the Arco de Santa Clara.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAto arrive at the market.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe market itself was quite an interesting place to wander around.  It was huge inside.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAYou could buy almost anything you needed for the home, including foods,OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA and other kinds of stuff. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThey had a section with counters at which you could buy fresh food and sit down and eat.  These were very small places where you did not necessarily get a table to put you food on.  Here is one instance.  There were many other such counters.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt was beginning to get late by the time we were done with the market.  We walked back to the hotel using the back roads.  On the way we passed crowded streets, on one of which a street market seemed to be underway.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe pavements were packed in some of the streets.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAYou saw some interesting food in the store fronts.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAnd you always had to be careful to avoid getting hit by road traffic.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOnce past the markets, we continued our way back to the hotel.  We walked through a neighborhood that looked somewhat questionable.  The group of people in the background in the picture below are near a building from which a lot of noise was emanating.  It might have been a music club, one that was open early in the evening.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABut we did arrive at the Jose Antonio Hotel safely.

I was completely exhausted by the time we got back to the hotel.  Some of us must have walked around 6 miles, and we were also not used to walking at this altitude.

But the evening was not over yet.  We still had to go to a dinner at a nearby restaurant that had been arranged by the tour group.  The food was good, but I was still full from lunch.  I barely survived. I had to make an extra effort to avoid falling asleep at one point.  I crashed out early after we returned to our room.  We had a long day of travel ahead of us the next day.

The Walk to Saqsaywaman

We had made detailed plans for spending the day exploring the town of Cusco on our own, without the rest of the tour group.   The plan began to unravel almost immediately in the morning.  We did not follow the route that we had set for ourselves, and we did not pay attention to whether we were covering everything that was on our list of things to see. It did not matter. This turned out to be another day of new and interesting experiences in Peru nevertheless.

The men in the group decided that they would walk to Saqsaywaman, an ancient Inca fortress overlooking the city of Cusco.  (The name of this place is spelt in many different ways in the English language, as are many other names that are derived from the Quechua language.)  The women were to meet up with us at an entrance to the park.  This was going to be a climb of about 500 feet, over a couple of miles, starting at an altitude of about 11,000 feet.  It was going to be a nice challenge!

The puma is an animal of importance in the Inca religion (the others are the condor and the snake), and Cusco is shaped in the form of a puma.  Saqsaywaman is the head of the puma.  We set off down Ave El Sol from the Jose Antonio hotel, somewhere in the lower body of the puma.  Most of the road traffic at that time was headed toward the center of town, the direction that we were initially headed in.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA few hundred feet into the walk, I abandoned the paper map that I had printed and was trying to follow, and let the youngster in our group lead us onward using Google Maps.  It worked out well.  A few turns, a first right on to the road past the Qurikancha,OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAthen a left onto the road near the Inglesia De Santo Dominigo,OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAa couple of more turns,OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAincluding onto a road with the blue window shutters,OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAand then we were on the final road we had to take to the place where we were to meet the ladies.  Despite the narrowness of all the side roads, there was motor traffic on them.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe last road that we took during this part of the walk was a long stretch that was quite steep.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAwith the last stretch of the road proving to be the most challenging.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe even saw a car start up the street and then give up, backing away to a spot where it could turn on to one of the side roads. The motorbikers in the picture below made it to the end of the road, at which point they had to find an alternative way to proceed further.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe took it slow and easy.  When the road finally ended, and we still had to climb a few steps up to the top,OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAup to a hairpin bend on another road above the first one, to the place where we were to meet the ladies.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOne of the entrances to the park was located here.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe waited for the ladies.  The street dogs kept us company.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe bought tickets and continued our climb once the ladies arrived. The climb continued to be steep.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis llama lifted his headed for a moment from the grass that it was chewing – to look at us with amusement as we passed it on our way up the slope.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe continued the climb!OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOnce we reached the top, we hired a guide to show us around.  The first section we visited was the area of a reservoir.  We saw a few ruins along the way,OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAincluding  a couple shrines,OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAand walked through a closed waterway (aqueduct), one of many,OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAthat lead into the reservoir. (Note that the hole next to the shrine above could also have been a waterway.)  The reservoir was quite large.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFrom the reservoir you can see the “slides” that were once actually used by children.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis formation is  natural.  We actually saw children trying to slide down on these sections of rock.  If you ask me, it looked somewhat dangerous!

We walked across the reservoir, and up to a spot where the king used to sit and watch events in the big open field, the grand plaza, in front of him.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe remains of the fortress lay beyond the plaza.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA(You can click on the picture below to expand it.)OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA The people of Cusco apparently still hold events in this place, including a major celebration for the winter solstice. The fortress has three levels of walls.  The walls of the fortress have zigzagged edges, reminding you of the shape of lightning flashes.  (I have forgotten the reason the guide gave us for the use of this shape.)

There were doorways between the levels of the fortress, a few of them still intact.  (The guide told us that the rock on top of this doorway was placed there in later times.)OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe size of the rocks used for the walls decreases at you get to the upper levels of the fortress.  You cannot help noticing the massive sizes for the rocks in the lower wall,OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA and the perfect fit of the rocks.P4240487.jpgThe Incas apparently created shapes in the walls. The rocks in the wall below are in the shape of a llama or alpaca (I suspect it is an alpaca because the neck is short compared to the neck in another rock formation of similar shape close by).OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe walked into the fort area, to its top, to get views of the city (click on picture).OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe ended our visit to the site shortly after that. The trip to Saqsaywaman had taken us  longer than expected, and we had a long walk back to town.  The Palacio Nazarenas might have been a good place to visit on the way back, but we did not stop.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA By the time we had walked back to the central plaza, on another one of the narrow, character filled, roads that fill this part of town,OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAwe were tired and ready for lunch.

A final historical note about Saqsaywaman.  It was deliberately destroyed by the Spanish conquerors in the 16th century.  They removed rocks from the fortress to use in their other endeavors. So much for civilized behavior!

Here’s what happened the rest of the day!

A Stop at Chinchero on the Way to Urubamba and The Sacred Valley

There was no way for me to create daily blogs on the fly while we were traveling in Peru since were too busy visiting places.  Internet connections were also not always reliable.  Very often the days would start before 8 AM.  There was this day when we even departed in a bus for the train station at 5:30 AM after having checked out of the hotel!

Nevertheless, I did expend a few brain cells during the trip thinking about how I should structure this series of blogs.   I came to the conclusion that I should simply follow the flow of my heart and let it take whatever direction it wanted.  This might be considered a case of not have a well defined structure and/or principle of operation. A lifetime of experience has taught me  that having well defined principles of operation sometimes places unnecessary constraints, and can also diminish the joy of the process.  So I will allow this series of blogs to be more free flowing.  At the same time, I am sure that some sort of structure is bound to emerge, considering that this is a case of a former engineer’s brain cells being applied to the task.

But now that the trip has come to an end, I also need to move into action quickly, lest I forget all the details!  They say that memories last forever, but I am not at all certain that this is true.  Sometimes, these memories get lost in the crevices of one’s mind, and dragging these memories out becomes difficult.  Leaving a trail of breadcrumbs in these blogs might help the process!

To get to the Sacred Valley from Lima, the place where we had arrived at in Peru, one has to get to Cusco first, and then proceed further by road or train.  We flew into Cusco with our tour group.   Cusco is at an altitude of 11150 feet.   We had been warned ahead of time to prepare ourselves for the altitude.   We had already started taking our Diamox pills in Lima.  We were now about to be introduced to the practice of chewing of caco leaves, an activity that the natives practice regularly.

We arrived in Cusco somewhat late in the morning.  We could see the mountains of the Andes all around us as the aircraft approached the city.  Because of the thin air and the need for additional lift to keep the aircraft from stalling, it came in for a landing at a greater speed than I am used to.   As we exited the aircraft and waited to board our bus, we breathed in the thin air of the mountains for the first time.  It all seemed good!

The plan was to head immediately out of the city on the tour bus that was waiting for us.

The next couple of pictures were taken outside the airport building after we got our bags.  What is noticeable in all of the places that we visited in Peru is that many buildings do not have a layer of plaster on top of the bricks.  It is standard practice in the country.  In some cases the buildings are complete and occupied in spite of looking unfinished.  In other cases, especially in some homes, you might even find rebars sticking out of the roof.  This is because the building is being constructed by the family a little bit at a time as money becomes available for construction. This does not mean that the part of the house that has already been completed cannot be occupied immediately.  You will probably see more pictures showing this type of construction in future blogs.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe picture below is an advertisement for transportation to what may be the most popular destination in the country for international tourists.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAs we drove out of town, we passed a hill with a statue of Pachacutec, considered one of the greatest Inca kings, on top. It is now believed that he was responsible for what has been built on Machu Picchu.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThere was another monument to the Emperor Pachacutec, beside the road that we were driving along.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe climbed out of the valley that Cusco is situated in using a series of switchbacks. The bus made a stop somewhere along the way, on the hillside, to provide views of the city. While we were stopped we got instructions on the use of coca leaves to fight the effects of altitude sickness.  Our tour manager produced a bag of coca leaves that were safe to chew on. Essentially, one grabs a bunch and gently chews on it, or simply bites on it, on one side of the mouth.  It dissolves slowly over time. For people who do not know, coca leaves are also the source of cocaine when processed in large quantities.  The leaves, and any product made with coca, are banned in the United States, but its use is legal and accepted by all of Peru.  The locals chew on it all the time.  We used it regularly during the trip to help avoid altitude sickness.  There is little danger of addiction at the levels of our usage.  We also drank coca tea and enjoyed coca candies! Here is a view of the city.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAYou can see the kids walking down the hill in the picture below.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe stopped for lunch at the village of Chinchero.  We were visiting  a cooperative where the ladies make products from the wool of alpacas.

Lunch was served to us by the ladies.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe cuy, or guinea pig, pictured below is considered a delicacy in these parts.  It is a good source of protein.  The animal is domesticated for food.  It is difficult for some visitors to get used to eating cuy, especially in the form that it is usually presented in.  I found the little piece that I was given at lunch a little too tough to chew.  This was the only time I tried cuy.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI was fascinated by the way the kids were carried around by their mothers.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWho can resist pictures of cute children!  This one continued to turn around and look at me as mom walked away.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALunch was followed by a demonstration of the process for creating different colored threads from the wool. This thread is used for making the different products sold by the cooperative.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMost of the people in this part of Peru are Incas.  The Inca religion is polytheistic in nature, with Pachamama, or mother earth, being one of the more important deities.  The Spanish invaders brought in Catholicism in the 16th century, and the locals in some parts of the country now practice a form of religion that seems to mix of customs from the two ways of living.   Depending on where we were in the country, we saw either the combination of the cross and the bulls, or just the bulls, on the roofs of homes, meant for protection of the people living in the home.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWhile walking through town we passed a procession.  It could have been the procession in celebration of Easter.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThere also seemed to be some kind of meeting going on in town.  I heard two different accounts regarding the subject of the meeting.  One was that this was a funeral service.  The other was that this was a meeting of the mayors of the local villages.  They are sitting to the left of the picture below.  I was told that the mayors carry their official staffs with them, and these had been collected in a standing pile in front of where they are seated.  A good amount of cerveza was being consumed by the mayors.  Some music was also being provided on the instruments that you can see in the foreground of the picture.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThen it was onward to our destination for the night.  The view beside the mountain roads was beautiful. We stopped for pictures.  The snow-capped peaks of the Andes appeared in the distance.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe valleys were covered with meadows, green fields, and clumps of trees.  There were flowers by the wayside.  For some reason I began to think of The Sound of Music.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe clouds moved swiftly across the sky.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAnd then we began our descent into the Sacred Valley following a series of switchbacks down a steep mountainside.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe sun was beginning to set as we got to our hotel on the outskirts of the town of Urubamba.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAUrubamba is a small place beside the Urubamba river, one of the headwaters of the Amazon river.  We went out to a local restaurant for dinner with our tour group after checking into our rooms.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAt dinner we were entertained by a musician playing music on different kinds of pan flutes.  He was quite talented.  Indeed, he had also made all of the instruments that he was playing.   OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWhile you are in Peru, you will hear the song El Condor Pasa almost everywhere you go.    We heard the song being played most beautifully that evening.  Most of us from the US associate this song with Simon and Garfunkel, but the song actually originated in Peru.  The condor, puma, and snake, are the sacred animals of the Inca people.

We returned to our hotel after dinner and crashed out after the long day of travel.  So far there have been no issues in dealing with the altitude, but Urubamba is at an altitude of only about 9400 feet.

Next blog in the series here.

Onward to the Land of the Incas

We are preparing for a visit to Peru next month.  During this trip we will be traveling to the interior and visiting the heartland of the old Inca civilization, including the ancient city of Cusco.  We are looking forward to this visit.

I have been doing some reading in anticipation of this trip.  The first book that I read was ‘Turn Right at Machu Pichu”, by Mark Adams.  This book, first published in 2011, weaves two different story lines.  The first is Mark’s experience of traveling the region, following in the paths of earlier explorers, including trekking the famous Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.  Mark interweaves this narrative with an account of the history of the region, some of it very brutal, mostly centered around the time of the Spanish conquests of the area.  He talks about the “discovery” of Machu Picchu by Hiram Bingham III, a somewhat self-serving American explorer in search of fame, in 1911.  But Machu Picchu was never really “lost”, especially to the people who are from the region!  In any case, the stories are interesting, even if the details of the book are difficult to remember just a few weeks after reading it.  My memory is not what it used to be.

The other book I read more recently was “The Old Patagonian Express”, by Paul Theroux.  This book was first published in 1979.  It is an account of Paul’s travel from Boston, Massachusetts, to Esquel in Patagonia, mostly by train.  The travels took the author through Peru, and specifically Cusco and Machu Picchu.  I have a copy of the book that I had bought in June of 1985, when I was about to graduate with my doctorate degree.  It was time to open the book once again.

The spirit of the somewhat arduous trip taken by Paul Theroux (it took a few months to complete) is something that I can appreciate.  It is an undertaking that seems to have been driven mainly by the author’s sense of curiosity and adventure, and his need to leave his zone of comfort in the process.  It is about the thrill and the romance of travel.  You do it because you want to see, experience, and learn about new things, new places, new people, etc..  You are not looking for the familiar place or face.  You do not have a complete plan in place to handle the situations that you will encounter.  And it is more significant than that – you willingly open yourself to the unexpected and let yourself become more vulnerable. And in all of this, you manage to learn something more about yourself.

One has to remember that Paul Theroux’s book was written in the 1970s.  I now find that his attitude towards the kind of people that he encountered, especially the locals, seems to be somewhat condescending, or maybe it is just a general sense of superiority.  I wonder if it is actually a sign of the times that Paul Theroux lived and traveled in, or if it is a somewhat generic attitude taken by folks who are out on voyages of discovery, including most of the explorers of times past – especially those from Europe and North America.  They always thought that they were better off than the others, and that they knew what was good for others. Perhaps they were really better off from a materialistic point of view, but did they necessarily know what was good for others?

Paul talks a lot about the poverty he encountered in Peru, especially among the natives.  The power structures in place in government in those days did not seem to be geared towards improving the lives of the common man.  Perhaps it is all true.  My problem, reading Paul’s work at this time in my life, is the feeling I have that he does not seem to have gone beyond the superficial in trying to understand the lives of people.  He does not seem to have had the conversations that someone who is undertaking this kind of effort should be having.   Maybe he did not have enough time.  Maybe he did not think his book was meant to be read by somebody of Inca ancestry.  In my mind, he comes off as being quite opinionated in this regard.  He might have thought that he was be brutally honest, but I think the problem is that he did not make the attempt to have a more complete perspective. He really did not complete his homework.  Perhaps, this is a general problem with the attitudes of too many explorers.

Anyway, here we are, more than 40 years after the time of Paul Theroux’s travels to South America, and we are on our way to South America once again (we went to Ecuador two years ago).  I wonder how the country of Peru has changed since the 1970s.  We are not adventurers like Paul Theroux.  We are going in an organized tour group, and everything is going to be taken care of for us.   We will probably be shielded in some way from the locals.  Paul Theroux had also traveled through Ecuador, and he talks about the poverty in that country, but our exposure to those circumstances a couple of years ago in the tour group in Ecuador was minimal.  It could be that the situation has changed since the 1970s, but it could also be that we were just shown what would be tolerated by “tourists” like us – things that were unlikely to cause us distress, or show the country in a poor light.

It seems like the town of Cusco was geared somewhat towards tourism even in the 1970s.  It is in all likelihood even more so today.  You only have to see all the information on the Internet in this regard to sense that this is the case.  You would also be led to believe that people are generally much better off in Cusco today than 40 years ago, but how can one be sure without having the complete experience?

As I said before, since we will be arriving in Peru as tourists in a tour group, almost everything that we do will be according to a plan and a schedule.  But the explorer in me feels that perhaps some of the more remarkable and memorable moments of the trip could happen outside of the script.  One just has to be open to the possibilities.

One final note about the trains that Paul Theroux took many years ago.  Even in those days, there was no way to do the entire trip from Massachusetts to Patagonia solely by train.  Looking at the available train services today, this situation has gotten even worse.  Passenger train services are available in much fewer places today.  Common folk have to depend more on the buses than they used to do in times past.  In a few places, the trains have been saved by running services over short distances just for the tourists.  But this is not the real thing!  The romance of the railroad is not what it used to be.